Scaling and root planning
The goal of conventional periodontal treatment, otherwise known as scaling and root planing, non-surgical periodontal treatment, or dental prophylaxis is to take away or get rid of the etiologic agents that cause inflammation. Scaling and root planing are often referred to as deep cleaning.
Scaling:
Scaling is procedure that thoroughly removes contamination toxins, micro-organisms, plaque, tartar, cementum, dentin that is rough and/or permeated by calculus from around, below and under the gum line down to the bottom of the pocket. This is done to eliminate biofilm, calculus, and toxin down to the bottom of each periodontal pocket in order to achieve a healing response.
Root Planing:
Root planing involves smoothing the root surfaces of your teeth with thin curettes so gum tissue can more safely reattach to roots that are clean and soft to avoid tooth loss and sensitivity problems. The process makes it more hard for plaque to accumulate along the root surfaces.
Because this method goes deeper than a regular cleaning, your mouth might be numbed. The cleaning may take two visits to complete. Depending on the extent of the disease you may need one or more sections (quadrants) of the mouth to be treated with scaling and root planing. Treatment may require one or more visits.
Root planing and scaling for gum disease:
Non-surgical therapy removes plaque and calculus by controlling the development of harmful bacteria and by treating conditions that encourage gum disease. This type of treatment may be all that's needed, especially when periodontal disease is caught early. You may also need to have certain procedures, such as replacing worn fillings or crowns with overhanging margins that can accumulate plaque, taken care of before periodontal therapy can begin.
Root planing and scaling is one of the most efficient ways to treat gum disease before it gets severe. Root planing and scaling cleans between the gums and the teeth down to the roots. Your dentist may need to use a local anesthetic to numb your gums and the roots of your teeth.
Some dentists and dental hygienists will use an ultrasonic tool for the planing and scaling. This tool is not as uncomfortable as a standard scraping tool, but not all cleanings involve this type of tool.Dentist may also place antibiotic fibers into the pockets between your teeth and gums. The antibiotic will help speed healing and prevent infection. The dentist will remove the fibers about 1 week after the procedure.
Post Operative Instructions: Scaling and Root Planing
Oral Hygiene: Rinse your mouth 2-3 times per day with warm salt water (one teaspoon of salt to 8 ounces of water). Start home care, as instructed, immediately.
Discomfort: Your gums may become "achy" and a couple of Advil will eliminate any discomfort. Sensitivity to cold may temporarily occur.
Eating: Your next meal must be soft. Avoid any hard, crunchy foods like potato chips, snacks, etc. for the next 3-4 days. Avoid extreme temps and highly spiced food if you can.
Swelling: Swelling or jaw tautness occur very rarely however, if it does, place warm wet towels to the face in the spot of stiffness.
Smoking: Please do not smoke following scaling and root planning procedures. Tobacco smoke is an irritant to healing. Refrain from smoking for 24 hours or longer.
Cosmetic Procedures:::
In addition to procedures to treat periodontal disease, various periodontists also perform cosmetic procedures to enrich your smile. Oftentimes, patients who pursue cosmetic procedures observe improved function as well. Cosmetic procedures include Crown Lengthening, Soft Tissue Grafts, Ridge Augmentation.
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Roof Structures | Roof Trusses
Roof construction is a construction specialty in itself. Not all carpenters are roofing specialists because roof structures involve skills that all carpenters may not have. Roofs are constructed in two ways, either by stick construction or with roof trusses. Stick construction is a term used to define the two different methods of how a roof is built. A stick built room consists of individual pieces of lumber that are installed one at a time to make up the roof structure. The roof structure pieces consist of roof rafters, a ridge pole (the center point of the roof), collar ties, and overlays. The language can be confusing so let me explain some of the terms.
Roof rafters:
The roof rafters are the basic structure that the roof sheathing is attached to.
They're made either from 2x6s, 2x8s, 2x10s, and sometimes 2x12s, depending on the building span and load requirements in the region where the building is built. In northern areas where snow is a factor the roof is designed to support heavy snow loads however, in regions where there is little or no snow the roof load is of less concern. The roof rafters are attacked to both sides of the ridge pole. The ridge runs the full length of the roof. The roof rafters are usually placed 16 inches on center but then again that depends on the desired roof load and the size of the roof rafters.
Ridge Pole:
The ridge (ridge pole) is located at the top of the roof. The ridge runs the full length of the roof.
The roof rafters are attached to both sides of the ridge, usually at 16 inches on center but then again that depends on the desired roof load and the size of the roof rafters.
Collar Ties:
Collar ties are usually made from 2x6s and attached to the roof rafters approximately two feet below the ridge. There purpose in to distribute the load of the roof evenly between the roof rafters on both sides of the roof. Collar ties are usually installed on every other set of roof rafters.
Overlays:
The overlays are usually 2x6s that run the width of the building and attach to the roof rafter where they sit on the walls. The overlays also serve as the ceiling joist for the room below.
Roof Trusses:
Roof Trus
A roof truss is a one piece pre-fabricated frame. The pieces are assembled in jig and nailed together using steel plates. Roof trusses made the roof construction much easier. A builder simply provides the dimensions of the house to his supplier and the supplier orders roof trusses from a truss builder. The trust builder builds the trusses to the truss design requirements for the roof loads in the area of where the building is constructed.
Roof trusses can be made in any size to fit any building design. They make a stronger roof than stick built roofs and usually are a lot cheaper to use than the material required for a stick built roof by more than 20%. Although they are cumbersome to install they do make the overall construction of the roof much faster.
The trusses are usually placed 16 inches apart although they are often spaced 24 inches apart depending on their design and the load requirements of the roof. If the building has a complex roof design a combination of truss and stick construction is used to build the roof.
This is a basic explanation of roof structure and design. On small construction projects such as sheds and other out buildings, the roof is usually stick built but roof trusses can be manufactured to fit any roof design. I recommend using trusses because they are cheaper than stick roof construction, make a stronger roof, and enables you to complete the project much faster.
Les Donovan is semi-retired and lives in the lakes region of central New Hampshire following more than four decades in the aerospace industry. He has extensive home building experience having build four house, built garages, porches, finished basements and attic rooms as well as made extensive addition to houses. For the most part, he built the house by himself and acted as a general contractor fo
Roofing Phoenix | Phoenix Roofing| Phoenix Roof Repair
Phoenix Roofing Series: A Quick Guide to Roof Maintenance
A tree falls on a house. A fire is caused by debris accumulated within gutters. Water leaks into a house during a storm. These are just a few examples of disasters that could be avoided by regular roof maintenance. Homeowners should conduct semi-annual roof inspections (at least twice a year) to check for signs of damage or potential problems.
Here are a few tips to keep roofs in top condition:
• Keep roof free of debris – Remove leaves, branches, twigs, and other debris that accumulates over time. This is especially important after major storms or during the dry season when fires are particularly prone to develop.
• Monitor surrounding trees – If trees are growing near the home, make sure to trim branches regularly so to prevent them from scratching or falling on the roof.
• Clean gutters and overhangs regularly – Leaves and other debris can clog gutters, leading to potential water damage of the building.
• Attend to repairs regularly – Minor leaks, holes, and open seams should be repaired immediately to prevent further damage.
• Inspect roof for mold – If black or discolored streaks are visible on your roof, you may have a mold problem.
• Monitor shingles and replace if necessary – Shingles that are cracked, worn, or broken should be replaced.
• Replace paint or sealant if necessary – If your roof is painted, it will need to be repainted every 2 to 4 years. Tin roofing for example, requires paint or a sealant in order to prevent corrosion.
Maintenance strategies will vary depending on the construction materials of the roof. The tips provided in this article are meant to be general strategies that any homeowner should use. Regular roof maintenance will help save time, money, and the occasional disaster.
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Roofing Terminology
Knowing common roofing terminology will enable you as a homeowner to make an informed decision about roofing materials that are good matches for your home's style and the region in which you live. It will also help you understand the contract with your roofing professional and the project updates.
Some key roofing terms are listed below:
Asphalt: A waterproofing agent applied to roofing materials during manufacturing.
Asphalt plastic roofing cement: An asphalt-based sealant used to bond roofing materials. Also known as flashing cement, roof tar, bull or mastic.
Back surfacing: Granular material applied to the back side of shingles to keep them from sticking during delivery and storage.
Base flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the deck to direct the flow of water onto the roof.
Built-up roof: Multiple layers of asphalt and ply sheets bonded together.
Butt edge: The bottom edge of the shingle tabs.
Caulk: To fill a joint to prevent leaks.
Closed valley: The valley flashing is covered by shingles.
Coating: A layer of viscous asphalt applied to the outer roof surface to protect the roof membrane.
Collar: Pre-formed flange placed over a vent pipe to seal the roof around the vent pipe opening.
Also called a vent sleeve.
Concealed nail method: Application of roll roofing in which all nails are covered by a cemented, overlapping course.
Counter flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface above the plane of the roof to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.
Course: Row of shingles that can run horizontally, diagonally or vertically.
Cricket: A peaked water diverter installed at the back of a chimney to prevent accumulation of snow and ice and to deflect water.
Deck: The top surface of which a roof system is applied, surface installed over the supporting framing members.
Double coverage: Asphalt roofing whose lapped portion is at least two inches wider than the exposed portion, resulting in two layers of roofing material over the deck.
Downspout: A pipe for draining water from roof gutters to drain. Also called a leader.
Drip edge: L-shaped flashing used along the eaves and rakes to allow water run-off into the gutters and to drip clear of underlying construction.
Eave: The part of the roof that overhangs or extends outward and is not directly over the exterior walls or the buildings interior.
Exposed nail method: Application of roll roofing where nails are driven into the overlapping course of roofing. Nails are exposed to the elements.
Fascia: A wood trim board used to hide the cut ends of the roof's rafters and sheathing.
Felt: Fibrous material used as an underlayment or sheathing paper, describes roll roofing materials.
Flashing: Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to form water seal around vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers and valleys.
Gable: The end of an exterior wall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.
Granules: Ceramic-coated and fired crushed rock that is applied as the top surface of asphalt roofing products.
Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts. Usually attached to the fascia.
Head lap: An overlapping of shingles or roofing felt at their upper edge.
Hip: The fold or vertical ridge formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. Runs from the ridge to the eaves.
Ice dam: Condition forming water back-up at the eave areas by the thawing and re-freezing of melted snow on the overhang. Can force water under shingles, causing leaks.
Interlocking shingles: Individual shingles that mechanically fasten to each other to provide wind resistance.
Laminated shingles: Strip shingles made of two separate pieces laminated together to create extra thickness. Also called three-dimensional and architectural shingles.
Lap: Surface where one shingle or roll overlaps with another during the application process.
Mansard roof: A design with a nearly vertical roof plane connected to a roof plane of less slope at its peak. Contains no gables.
Mineral stabilizers: Finely ground limestone, slate, traprock or other inert materials added to asphalt coatings for durability and increased resistance to fire and weathering.
Nesting: A method of reroofing, installing a second layer of new asphalt shingles, in which the top edge of the new shingle is butted against the bottom edge of the existing shingle tab.
Pitch: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the span, in feet.
Low Slope - Roof pitches that are less than 30 degrees.
Normal Slope - Roof pitches that are between 30 and 45 degrees.
Steep Slope - Roof pitches that are more than 45 degrees.
Rafter: The supporting framing that makes up the roof structure; immediately beneath the deck; the roof sheathing is nailed to the rafters.
Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall from the eave to the ridge. They can be close or extended.
Ridge: The horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping sides of a roof at the highest point of the roof, hip or dormer.
Run: The horizontal distance between the eaves and a point directly under the ridge; or one half the span.
Selvage: That portion of roll roofing overlapped by the application of the roof covering to obtain double coverage.
Sheathing: Exterior grade boards used as a roof deck material.
Shed roof: A single roof plane with no hips, ridges, valleys or gables, not connected to any other roofs.
Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in feet.
Smooth-surfaced roofing: Roll roofing that is covered with ground talc or mica instead of granules (coated).
Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves that extends from the fascia to the siding and hides the bottom of an overhang.
Soil stack: A vent pipe that penetrates the roof.
Span: The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.
Specialty eaves flashing membrane: A self-adhering, waterproofing shingle underlayment designed to protect against water infiltration due to ice dams or wind driven rain.
Starter strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves as the first course of shingles installed.
Tab: The weather exposed surface of strip shingles between the cutouts.
Telegraphing: Shingles installed over an uneven surface that show distortion.
Truss - A combination of beams, bars and ties, usually in triangular units to form a framework for support in wide span roof construction.
UL label: Label displayed on packaging to indicate the level of fire and/or wind resistance of asphalt roofing.
Underlayment: A layer of asphalt based rolled materials installed under main roofing material before shingles are installed to provide additional protection for the deck.
Valley: The internal angle formed by the intersection of two inclined roof surfaces to provide water runoff.
Vapor barrier/retarder: Any material that prevents the passage of water or water vapor through it.
Vent: Any device installed on the roof as an outlet for air to ventilate the underside of the roof deck.
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